Driving Samoa Style

Feature of Library of Samoa building

Road behind library - one of the main roads in the central business district. It would be one of the worst roads due to the heavy traffic made up of buses and trucks.

One of two main bus stops in Apia showing the colourful buses

Living as we do in the outskirts of the Capital of Samoa, Apia, getting hooked up with reliable transport was one of our first concerns. For most locals we speak to, they are horrified that we live so far out- it is a full 8km to the centre of the city.

The road switch bought in early this year has meant an abundance of both right and left hand drive vehicles. Samoa previously drove on the right hand side of the road, so the road switch was supposedly related to access to cheaper freight vehicles from Australia and New Zealand, where many Samoan people earning AU and NZ dollars could pay to send a car to their family at a more realistic rate than shipping from the US. We have heard on the grapevine that it was also related to the PM falling out with the major car dealership in the country. The switch has bought in many new dealerships which have essentially wiped out the former market control held by that company.

For now, both left and right hand vehicles are on the road. It is incredibly disconcerting when a vehicle turns across your path and you find yourself looking at a five year old in the front left hand seat where the driver should be.

We have rented a tiny but mighty Terios to see us through our time here. We are learning that there is a unique style to driving in Samoa.

It is slow- the speed limit is 40km an hour to ensure no mishaps in the early days of adjusting to the road switch, down to 25km an hour in busy pedestrian locations. I can honestly say that I have never seen anyone get as low as 25K aside from one guy who was clearly drunk and having difficulty picking a lane.

It is bumpy – the roads range from the excellent, such as the main road into Apia which is currently undergoing major work (pending election!!), to the horrific. Our road is one of the latter. Some potholes on our road our up to 30cm deep, with several patches of holes leading to our location that defy any attempt at avoidance. They deteriorate with raining weather. Beyond us, further up the hill, is actually a disaster, and we actively avoid it. The Terios can only take so much.

One of the curious observations when we moved here was just how far Samoans will go to avoid a pot hole or bumpy patches- often crossing to the wrong side of the road or driving at a snails pace. We figure it follows that when freighting vehicles here is so costly you will go out of your way to avoid wear and tear. Travelling down our road requires much of the same. We have been told that there are five separate MPs that live on our road (there are some quite amazing ocean views from the high side), but the local member is from the opposition. Sum total is little value in directing government investment to a location that “belongs” to someone else’s voters.

Driving here is also noisy. Samoans toot their horns to say hello. They toot to say “here you go, I’ll let you in”. They toot to thank you for doing the same. They also toot to say “WTF?”

The tooting often accompanies the unexpected give way to the right. When turning left off a road, it is common practice here to give way to the right- letting those coming in the opposite direction that are turning across you to go in the same direction move into their turn first. This is apparently not consistent with road rules, but happens nonetheless (check that- have just confirmed it is actually the rule here- oops). You get many toots from behind when you back up the road to allow it, but just as many belligerent toots if you don’t. I have a mantra when it happens- Man, whatever, I’m not in any hurry. I felt marginally better when I watched a pair of Mormon missionaries get stuck giving way to ten cars in a row, getting tooted in both directions. One give way per turn is my standard.

Any other day than Saturday and any other location than the markets, I just go with the flow or the toots, whichever offers direction first. Drive the market road on a Saturday and all bets are off- it is true bedlam. Last Saturday, one side of the road swelled to take up three lanes, forcing the oncoming traffic almost onto the sidewalk. The thoroughfare was mad with cars, taxis and buses going every which way. All within vision of a singular traffic cop whose only intervention was to walk slowly up the road, eyeballing the cars. That did the trick with each side of the road clearing, back to single lane traffic. Paul looked at me with a slightly manic grin and said – this is what it is all about. As long as you are driving Paulie, it sure is!